Mabel Gray
This restaurant visit occurred in March 2020.
Date night (and a mini celebration of The Vegan Mary official launch) brought my hubby and me to the James Beard Foundation semi-finalist and 2016 Michigan restaurant of the year award winner, Mable Gray. We’d had our sights (and stomachs) set on visiting this Hazel Park, Michigan, eatery for some time, but it wasn’t until we scored a tough-to-get table for its vegan tasting menu night that we made our inaugural visit.
This renowned establishment, located in a suburb north of Detroit, is peculiarly situated nearby a wrestling supply store, auto repair shop, and family dentistry. In fact, initially we drove right by. Once we circled back and gained entry we were promptly transported to an artful and fashionable scene, featuring soft, mismatched vintage table décor. "We could be in Brooklyn," I commented to my hubby (albeit the MG crowd was much more homogenous).
Typically I don’t painstakingly document every morsel of a dining experience, but this experience was anything but typical.
Our palates were instantly awakened by pickled wax beans and an herbed-dusted flat bread served with flavor-forward tofu tzatziki and a roasted red pepper-pomegranate-molasses-garlic tapenade. The tang and tastes were boisterous, leaping on the tongue. It was love at first bite. We knew after this first course, that we were in for a true flavor experience.
The flavor parade next brought us to grilled eggplant and zucchini ribbons dancing with tahini dressing, pepper jelly, whole roasted garlic, sunflower seeds, and black truffle. The freshness of the veg was nicely highlighted by the spice of the jelly and richness of the truffle. This was followed by a chilled Michigan beet soup brilliantly adorned with sauerkraut, pickles, dill, and a smoked whipped tofu. This is to say nothing of the perfectly baked house-made pumpernickel toast which accompanied. Trust me when I say, every last flavor meshed together in a extravaganza of rich, developing tastes. For real, move over gazpacho. This beet delight wins best chilled soup, as well as best color (what I can only describe as magical magenta).
I know what you may be thinking. What does this vegan know about great soup? Well, friends, let me tell you… when you can’t just stroll into any eatery and grab an amazing bowl of soup, you really appreciate it when you can. Veganism has taught me to appreciate greatness when I find it. In soup, and also I think in life.
Ok, back to our tasting party.
The next two courses were simple and wonderfully satiating. Fried cauliflower, harmonized with quinoa, raisins, seeds and cherry tomatoes. I believe other cauliflower fans out there would agree, a well prepared cauliflower can stand tall as an entrée. So we were tickled knowing that this nibble was just midway through our tasting menu. Next up, ‘carne asada’ style portobello tacos topped with onion, cilantro and a smooth avocado crema. There was nothing fussy about this authentically prepared light bite. A delight in every bite.
And for the pièce de résistance, pasta puttanesca. How, you may be asking, do we have room for the entrée? Experience, folks. The secret to enjoying any full tasting menu is to responsibly manage your stomach real estate: two bites of what you love and only one bite of what you like.
So with a well-managed belly, we are primed for our entrée. And listen, I’m not claiming to be an expert chef. But I know a good entrée. Sadly, this was not. The ravioli was fresh, but the dish was far too olive forward for this gal. Perhaps more fresh basil or breadcrumbs could have helped the balanced the bitterness. Guess this goes to show, a well prepared dish doesn’t always translate to palate pleasing dish.
After this blip on the menu, we eagerly awaited the closer: a chocolate hazelnut tart with orange cream sauce. And what a closer it was! Delicate flavors, with perfectly paired citrus to create a dynamically sweet and sour combination. Our server even adorned with a candle to help us celebrate the official launch of The Vegan Mary.
This vegan implores Mabel Gray and its brilliant Chef Rigato to tackle vegan tasting menus with more frequency and the same vigor. And, naturally, if you are looking for an experienced vegan taste tester… I’m your gal.
Special Note: Mabel Gray is currently open for carry-out, as well as take-and-bakes, and home kits.
